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| turbo help.. | | joelah | Posted @ 30 Jan 2008, 11:14pm | Member
Posts: 35 | hey guys, i got my VL SL 1986 recently and i'm thinking of getting a loan from the bank to get some turbo fitted in. problem is, i know little to nothing about what actual parts i'll need, where to get them from, and what to ask when i'm buying them. also, i have no idea how much it'll cost me in total so any rough estimates would be greatly appreciated.
at the moment i have a stock RB30, with 2.5" + extractors, CAI, K+N filter etc. looking to also go to 3" once i get the turbo but yeah.
any help would be very much appreciated.
thanks.
|  | | Replies | | #940 | | MICHAEL | Posted @ 30 Jan 2008, 11:37pm | Member
Posts: 241 | over a grand mate
turbo t3
exhaust manifold t3
water and oil lines
induction pipes
decompression plate
oil pump turbo
turbo injectors + ecu turbo
dump pipe
|  | | #942 | | joelah | Posted @ 31 Jan 2008, 12:46am | Member
Posts: 35 | thanks michael, what kind of place deals with turbo? as in, where can i go to discuss getting all of those parts and getting it installed professionally. any 'performance' shop?
|  | | #946 | | MICHAEL | Posted @ 01 Feb 2008, 6:05pm | Member
Posts: 241 | mate any mechanic or backyarder should do the job as your only bolting it on but the head will need to come off to lower the comp with a plate. if you want to find out more info just ask makka on this site he should sort you out.
i have spare parts to bolt on but i dont know whether to save it, turbo another or sell it the only thing i dont have spare is the turbo itself but there no good after they have been sitting. if you get stuck let me know and i might part with them.
|  | | #951 | | makka84 | Posted @ 02 Feb 2008, 2:30pm | Member
Posts: 191 | Hey joelah,what michael's saying is pretty much spot on.
Those are the main things you will need to get started to make this work,its worth all the hassles for the fun.
Yes,using a decompression plate is ok but its also a cheats way out,just be careful how much boost you wind on it coz remember,you are using stock pistons and not forged!still works a treat but those stock pistons wont hold forever if you plan on running higher boosts.
Con rods and the crank i wounld not even worry about coz they are bloody strong,the crank itself will take an easy 400+rwKw,rods are about the same.
Parts on EBAY awsome,and realy worth the dollars.
Hava look for MONSTA Industries and you will find stainless steel low mount manifolds "Buy it now" for
around $200 plus delivery.TO3,TO4E ect ect you'll find'em
in between $300 and $550 and they are great for what they are.Hope this helps
|  | | #955 | | joelah | Posted @ 03 Feb 2008, 12:47am | Member
Posts: 35 | haha thanks makka but due to the crash i had, i doubt i'll be getting turbo anytime soon. but thanks heaps man, i'll save that in a notepad doc.
|  | | #956 | | makka84 | Posted @ 03 Feb 2008, 12:17pm | Member
Posts: 191 | Lol,yes i read you had a bit of gutter love.
judging by what ive read,if you've bent the front then your chances are that you've bent a lower control arm,a radius rod,a strut or a sway bar.also check where your tie rod end is'nt bent either coz if thats bent then you're up for a new rack!hope the sub frame's ok,lol!
And the rear,ive done this before,bent axle!
Watch out when you bend an axle it takes out a wheel bearing,breaks a rear caliper mounting bracket,and if you pull out the trailing arm then its gonna be a bit tricky to get out coz the trailing arm bracket on the diff also gets bent.i did this on my R31 n ya should have seen the rear panhard rod it was like a banana!
check for htose things n see how it is,but i hope you have'nt done too much damage. Cheers mate
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