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| Forum |
| More Power For Michael! | | Posted @ 26 Dec 2007, 12:38pm |
Member
Posts: | Ok this one is all devoted to Michael's car...
It's probs a good idea to give us a run through of it's current mechanical condition and mods list Mic and i'll see if i can help and i hope others can contribute for the greater good of the vl community 
I'm assuming u have carried out a few of the regulation mods like intercooler exhaust and adjustable boost and are not 100% happy... i will start by saying that there is a lot to be said for a vl commodore service manual,good set of hand tools and a good multimeter in the perfomance stakes...
my multimeter actually has a temp sensor too so i have been able to check things like intake temp at various points throughout the intercooling.... manifold temps, coolant temp(which let me see wat the guage actually meant and where to use insulation). brillian bit of gear really... but yeah u can also check things like duty cycle on injectors, resistance of ignition components (ie coil,ignition leads) less resistance is better! and of course voltages which is handy to see if connections are good, sensors are working, stereo intall watever... all very handy in the power dipartment. dodgy sensors can lead to massive losses of power and drivability and seem to be the vl's biggest problem after 20 odd years.
Apart from that if it hasn't been serviced in a while probably a good idea to start with a complete service tune up of your car. Quick run through of your service... this might be a bit expensive so u should hate yourself for not doing idividual things when u should have.... if u have been a good boy there will be less to do. if not stagger it out over a month ... like i said this could get expensive with quality oils and product ... but willbe worth it and will ensure u don't have to touch most of it again for at least another 50,000-100,000 km and no doubt an improvment in power, reliablility, driveability and no doubt resale value. not to mention providing a solid base for performance!!!!
OILS/fluids
Compltete flush and renew with Quality products.
engine every 5,000km... don't go too thin in an old motor though semi synthetic or quality mineral
trans (20,000-40,000km) depending on type... stall, cooler and how u drive it
diff
powersteer
brake fluid
Flush radiator and replace coolant with quality antiboil anti corrosive.
FILTERS
Fuel (tends to be forgotten about)
Air
Oil
Tran's (auto)
IGNITION
NGK iridium plugs (100,000km service life) also a good time to do compression test as u will have 1 plug out at a time anyway...
9mm spiral core lead of your choice with low resistance 7-9,000 ohms
distributor cap
coil test with multimeter or simply uprade or renew.
SENSORS(test with multimeter)
Airflow meter
coolant temp
oxygen
crank angle
injectors
HOSES
Radiator hoses
Intercooler piping (good time to take the front cover off turbo to check shaft for play ect)
all rubber hoses
(no hoses should leak air in or out of anywhere)
|  | | Replies | | #781 | | MICHAEL | Posted @ 27 Dec 2007, 8:16pm |
Member
Posts: 308 | cheers mate pretty much gave it a full service with fuel oil filters and oil accept for the box
recently had the radiator out so shes been cleaned
my sensors are pretty fucked broken connections but the worst one seems to be still reading?
got new leads cap, rotor sparks etc
| | | #782 | | eric richardson | Posted @ 28 Dec 2007, 3:55pm |
Member
Posts: 36 | ok cool, might be a good idea to check it out a bit more thoroughly... electronics spray is the best thing ever, gets rid of all of that green shit and evaporates without residue. um ...renewing sensors is pretty easy and most of them don't cost much at all and are basically screw out old screw in new affair, some require torque wrench settings but basically don't tighten them too tight or too loose and u will be right. another good tip is to use plubers tape on the thread where needed. as for dodgy connections... it's really not that hard to put a new connection on or even run a whole new wire from somewhere if needed... to make it easier and less chance of fucking up cut one wire and make one new connection at a time. oh and u didn't tell us what ur running? details mate gimme details eng/trans,turbocharger,computer, injectors,exh???
| | | #785 | | MICHAEL | Posted @ 28 Dec 2007, 7:23pm |
Member
Posts: 308 | original rb30et 7-1 rebuilt
std rebuilt hi flowed t3 garrett
new 5 speed box
power chip ecu
3" exhaust one baffle only
std injectors but have 380cc needs dyno
stainless extractors
you can see pics in the cars its under booster rated bout 3 and its blue if you cant find it set up a email add. and i will send you some pics that way
| | | #786 | | eric richardson | Posted @ 28 Dec 2007, 8:46pm |
Member
Posts: 36 | hey sweet ride man... paintjob looks the goods, did u do it yourself... with that gear and a good tune u should really be making at least 300hp at the wheels. Are u running a std fuel pump if so get rid of it quickly!!! u need a lot more fuel than it can provide. If your really after power go for a bigger cam that could allow you to make up to 400hp at the wheels. how does she go at the moment mate? running much boost? any dramas?
| | | #788 | | MICHAEL | Posted @ 28 Dec 2007, 9:18pm |
Member
Posts: 308 | need the windscreens in to see wat shes got she has been in the garage for bout 8 months getting repairs. fuel pump is pretty load and delivered fuel to 380cc injectors with no probs when i put them in so i dont think thats std.
i did the panels and spayed the engine bay ,boot doors and door jams all the insides and the old man hit the outside.
i had the boost up the other day and seemed to spool pretty hard without any missing sounds like an 8
| | | #798 | | eric richardson | Posted @ 30 Dec 2007, 7:03pm |
Member
Posts: 36 | man let us know when u get a dyno figure would love to see how it all shapes up sounds solid... hope it's back on the road soon it really is a vl to be proud of mate. well done!
| | | #813 | | MICHAEL | Posted @ 04 Jan 2008, 9:47pm |
Member
Posts: 308 | cheers mate she was a total mess when i got her. smoke would fill the cabin when floored, boost was fluctuating, motor would run so hot, the body had kicked in panels, far side kerb sill was punched in and the roof had been jumped on not too mention rusted even had too replace a section with new panel it was so bad. wires were f$cked he had enough wire to wire 3 vls and suspension was held with oxy wire instead of split pins. i think it would of been a real nice car until this young c$nt got his hands on it dead set maniac.
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